A stack of dark round loaves tipped against each other, one cut through to show the crumb

Read it backwards

Every other page here runs field to crumb. This one starts at the crumb and works back, because that is the order you meet it in: you eat the loaf, then you ask what flour, then you ask whose field.

05 · Crumb — Thursday rye, cut Friday morning
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Stage 05 · the index

Eleven things we bake

Six of them are worth writing down. The other five are variations on the house loaf and you will work them out yourself once you have the flour. Each entry names the sack it came out of and the field that sack came off.

The open crumb of a cut loaf, holes and all, filling the frame05 · Crumb

The house loaf

70% Dala landrace, 30% svedje rye, 82% hydration, twelve hours with ten of them cold. The loaf the mill shop sells out of by eleven every Saturday, and the one we teach first at the bench class.

One seeded boule sitting alone on a pale shelf, scored across the top05 · Crumb

Thursday rye

All svedje, no wheat, baked in a tin at 190 °C for eighty minutes and left two days before cutting. It is not a loaf you make on impulse. It is a loaf you plan on Tuesday.

Four seeded slices fanned out on a wooden paddle against a pale ground05 · Crumb

Spelt knäckebröd

Rolled thin enough to read through, docked, 230 °C for nine minutes. Keeps a month in a tin and is the only thing on this list that forgives being made badly.

A dark crusted loaf close up in low warm light05 · Crumb

Emmer tin loaf

A third emmer, two thirds Sikt 60, because all emmer gives you a brick and we have made enough of those for everyone. Dark, close, faintly sweet. Ten minutes longer than you think.

A round flatbread cooking in a black pan on a hob, a spatula resting beside it04 · Dough

Barley bannock

No yeast, no starter, no waiting: barley flour, buttermilk, soda, a hot pan. Twenty minutes start to plate. The thing to make on the evening you forgot to feed the levain.

Loaves and rolls massed together on a market table, crusts pale and cracked05 · Crumb

Saturday buns

Sikt 60, butter, cardamom crushed that morning rather than bought ground. Ninety of them go in the oven at five and they are gone by noon; we have stopped pretending we can make more.

Stage 04 · the bench

Thursday rye, written out

900 g svedje rye, 100 g Sikt 60, 820 g water at 40 °C, 200 g rye starter, 22 g salt, a tablespoon of caraway if you grew up with it. Mix with a spoon — there is nothing to develop, so hands only make a mess.

Straight into a buttered tin, smoothed with a wet palm, covered, four hours at room temperature until the surface cracks like dry ground. 250 °C for fifteen minutes, then 180 °C for a further seventy. Brush with water out of the oven, wrap in a cloth, and do not touch it until Saturday.

Hydration82%Bulk4 h at 21 °CBake85 min, fallingRest48 h, wrapped
Loose flour scattered across a dark worktop in low morning light
A blade drawn across the top of a floured boule, cutting a curve into the skin04 · Dough — scoring at 05.20
Two hands clapping flour into the air above a dark round loaf on a board
Seen from above, two hands holding a sieve of flour over a checked cloth and an egg
Proving loaves lined up along the slats of a wooden rack
04 → 03Going back
A hand reaching into standing corn and drawing a bunch of ears out of the crop

“Nobody ruins a loaf with the oven. They ruin it with the water, three hours earlier, because they used last year's number on this year's flour.”

Tobias HjelmBakes here Thursday to Saturday · at the bench since 2016
01 · Field — Stora Bjurum, the week before cutting

Six places at the bench, first Saturday

Four hours, 650 kr, one loaf each to take home and a kilo of whatever we milled that week. It books out about three weeks ahead.